Florida Coalcracker Chronicles: Camino Del Rey - The Most Dangerous Path In the World

Friday, January 10, 2020

Camino Del Rey - The Most Dangerous Path In the World

We hiked Camino Del Rey

After spending 6 days in Malaga Spain - Lulu and I wanted to get out of the city and see the countryside. I wanted to take a docile train to Gibraltar and revisit that British Enclave. Lulu had her sights set on something a little more challenging. She had read about Camino Del Rey - the pathway of the king. I read it and I cringed. 10 people had died hiking it in the last 20 years! I told her that I survived to 71 by not taking many real chances. I have not been that brave since marrying a young girl almost 50 years ago.

Then she showed me the fine print. About 5 years ago - the government spent 9 million euros - completely rebuilding all the walkways - making it very safe.

Lulu found a web site that offered a guided tour for 108 euros total. This was Wednesday night at 9 PM. I had to commit and possibly lose my money if I back out. I said no - and we planned something more docile because - we let the old man in :-(

All night long I dreamed of failing Lulu. We were within 40 miles of this sensational walk - and I was a coward. I woke up in fits all night. In the morning - I said - I will not let fear rule my destiny! Lulu said - too late. I said - we will do it ourselves.

We went to the Malaga Train Station - tickets to the little town were only 5 euros each way. The train would take less than an hour to cover the 40 miles. We were on our way with no reservations - flying by the seat of our pants. If there were no tickets for the hike - we could continue on the train to Cordoba and Seville.

A shuttle bus took us to the trail head about 7 miles away. It cost 1.50 euros. Luckily you can only hike the trail in one direction - downhill - back toward town.

Camino (Caminito) Del Rey was a path constructed between two giant hydroelectric dams. The trail was constructed to service an ancient aqueduct that carried water from dam to dam - and to the city. It slowly deteriorated into a death trap. Many movies were shot along the trail. The king did actually walk the trail once - thus its name.

At the trail head - be bought passes for 10 euros each. We were set. Lulu was happy - now all I had to do was show up - and not punk out. At first the trail was gentle through beautiful valleys and on firm ground. I was feeling both smug and ashamed. We had about 7 miles to go - with a mild grade south. The sun came out - and burned off all the clouds. It was about 62 degrees - but walking into the sun made my face red.

Lulu packed a very nice lunch from things she scrounged from our hotel breakfast - ham - cheese - rolls - fruit - nuts - candy. Our picnic was really good about half way down the line. (Note from Lulu: I always say traveling with Harry is like traveling with a toddler - I must pack snacks, drinks, wet wipes, tissues, etc. and all were needed/used on this hike.)

Soon the trail was hugging the cliffs. You could see the parts of the old trail that fell into the river - well over 300 feet straight down. But above the old trail was a new walkway - about 4 feet wide - a board walk - with stainless steel rails and cables. The wooden boards were all fresh - new and stained. It was like walking on a wooden porch except it was a big fall to the bottom.

I felt very good - all the way to the suspension bridge. By then we were way high up. if I gave up then - I had an uphill walk home of about 5 miles. There were others on the trail - it was not crowded - like they say in the summer. We could stop and take pictures.

They require you to be 9 years old to take the trail. After I was done - I was really happy I did it - and did not let Lulu down. My balance was fine - but there were many places I was holding on with two hands. I can imagine it would be much worse with wind or rain. We had neither. Lulu was like a dancing bear in her down jacket. Our feet were covered with the light tan dust from all the travertine rock.

We walked all the way back to the train station. It is a pretty 100 year old station - high in the mountains - with a tunnel each side of it. The train parallels the path for a short bit. At the station - we were hungry. Lulu got us two liters of beer - two hot sandwiches - and a giant plate of the best French fries. Total cost was 15 euros. The train arrived on time - only three units. We got to our reserved seats - and enjoyed our short trip back to Malaga.

Total cost - train up and back 20 euros - shuttle bus 3 euros - trail admission 20 euros - and finally supper 15 euros. 58 euros including supper. I redeemed myself with my lady - and saved 50 euros - throw in a free dinner.

If you ever get to Malaga - be sure to hike the Camino Del Rey. It is no longer the most dangerous pathway in the world - but you can still pretend that it is.

Notes from Lulu: See Harry with a required helmet on for the hike. I thought he would balk but he didn't. We met a Chinese family and took some family photos for them. I feel like a dual resident now after my Fulbright stay. I think this hike was the best part of our stay in Malaga along with the 3 Kings Celebration. I don't think we will ever be back be we enjoyed it while there.