Greg Rose - our videographer - and surfing buddy - captured our big day in the waves. What a small world - turns out - his sister is one of Lulu's online students at FSU. She lives in Pasadena and Lulu planning to see her during our Rose Parade visit. Can you imagine that?
After 2 hours of surfing - exhausted Harry in front of Diamond Head on Waikiki Beach. He is covering his cherry belly from the beach walk on Friday.
For the last 50 year - Lulu and I - talked the talk of the surfing craze of the 60's. Now - with me in my 60's - I finally caught the wild surf in Hawaii. Son Drew gave us surfing lessons for Christmas and we walked the walk.
It started out at 10:30 with lessons lying on the beach - working on paddling - pointing the board - standing up - moving left and right - going faster and slower. Next we went out to where the waves were breaking.
Waikiki is famous for its low but long riding waves. If one gets up at the right time - you can ride for several hundred yards.
Our instructor was Jojo. She is a world famous instructor and can be found easily by googling - waikiki - jojo - surfing - lessons. She comes highly heralded and the reputation is lived up to. She is sweet - gentle - strong - and pretty. You end up feeling you are really good - when you are really just another red bellied haole trying to make the surfing scene.
For two hours - Lulu and I took turns riding our long boards. Jojo would check the waves - give us a push - and hopefully away we would go. I found that if you squat like going in the woods - you could get your balance and stand up.
Our videographer - Greg Rose - was also very helpful. He is so talented he could ride about 20 yards away next to you and "capture" your skills. We all had a good time together - a very professional duo.
I was able to stand up on each of my 10 rides - in the beginning I was tipsy - but near the end I was riding a few hundred yards and staying on until the end - not getting off - but paddling out to do it again.
After 2 hours of this - we were exhausted. We used many muscles that normally are dormant and on a few rides bruised our feet on the coral. On my first ride my hands slipped and I blasted my lip right into the board - two times - but eventually got up. If I ever took the hobby up - with my own board - I would take bigger breaks between rides. lots of surfers sit on their boats way out in the deep waiting for the right wave - and for me - I would be resting a little.
Surfing is a way of life out here. It seems almost every car - truck - van - bike - wagon - scooter - have racks on them. They dress a certain way - talk a certain way - and it seems that waves are more important than food or work.
Today - I got a chance to try it - and after buying a board - it could be an excellent cheap source of strenuous exercise. You do not see a lot of fat surfers.
"Catch a wave and you're sitting on top of the world."
Contact me for more information about our surfing instructor and videographer.